This page features any projects completed since the publication of the guidebook. Come here before visiting a venue if you want to know what new problems have been done. Crags are listed in alphabetical order. If you’ve done the first ascent of a new problem, please let me know on lancashirebouldering[at] and I’ll include it here.

This Youtube channel contains beta videos for lots of problems.


On West Walls, page 124.

On Grey Wall, page 123. Project 11 has been climbed, though due to discovery of a previously buried foothold, this is not very hard or worthwhile. The arete climbed to the top may make a decent highball, but the landing would need flattening.


On the small vertical wall with the traverse Bumble Town.

Turkey Mania – SIT 7B – Sitstart facing left with a high left heel. Make a hard rockover up and left to finish up the left side of the wall. Barrie Kershaw 2018. VIDEO

Guys Bein’ Dudes – SIT 6C – Sitstart facing right and climb straight up the middle on small holds, to gain larger edges. Bradley Bushell 2017.


On the Trad walls. Page 288.

Calibration – SIT 7A+ – Project 3.The central line. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Windy Miller – SIT 7A – Project 5. The left arete of the boulder – start from LH divot on the lip, RH sloper, then climb into the arete. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

On The Offwidth and The Anvil . Page 292/3.

Simple Dimple – SIT 7B – Project 13. pg 292. Slap up the arete. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Gnomeo and Juliet – SIT 7B+ – Project 3. pg 293. A tough sitstart dyno. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Hero Sit Start – 7C – Project 3. pg 293. Sitstart Hero, using the slabby footblock but not the low detached boulder that makes the bottom half of The Anvil. A real classic. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

On the Miniblocks, page 293.

Sharp Nothings – SIT 7A+ – Just left of the line of project 14. Pull on LH seam, RH something on the face. Slap upwards. Stan Hunter 2020.  VIDEO:

On the first boulder in the Back Edge. Page 294.

Sloper’s Slopers – 6B+ – Start on holds right of Nik’s Arete and traverse leftwards to finish up Nik’s Groove.

Redman’s Rib – 7A – Right of Nik’s Arete, start left hand on the good sidepull, right hand low on a small sidepull. Adam Jeeworth 2015 VIDEO:

Hobbit’s Undercuts – SIT 7B – Climb into The Big Crack Thing from a sitstart on undercuts. Peter Wilkinson 2015 VIDEO:

Sleepless Nights – SIT 6A+ – Sitstart the right arete, using the big sidepulls to the left.

On the Big Roof. Page 298.

Gurn Again – LOW 7A+ – Project 14. Start from undercuts and slap up the arete. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Soul Caliber – LOW 7A – Start as per The Lady’s Not For Gurning to the lip, then head straight up rather than moving left. Gain the top  and reach right for a helpful RH hold to top out. John Wilson 2014. Problem 15 in guide. VIDEO:

Iron Lady – LOW 7A – The right hand line. From undercuts, gain the lip then top out directly above.  John Wilson 2015.

Tempest – SIT 7C – Project 24. A desperate rockover. Hardest move at Blackstone. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

On the Trig Point Slab. Page 300.


Trig Slab RH – 6B SIT 6B+ – A good sitstart has been added to the RH variant. From LH shelf and RH pebbly edge, pull up and left to gain the LH sidepull and continue up the slab. The foot-ledge is not allowed, nor is the big undercut used on the 6A version.

Trig Of The Light – 6C+ SIT 7A – From LH slopey shelf and RH pebbly edge, head straight up, staying off the sidepull and undercut out left, and the arete out right. The foot-ledge is not allowed. A big rockover leads to balancy pebble pulling.

Trig Arete – 6B+ SIT 6C – Although an online video shows the foot-ledge being used, it’s a better problem (and no harder) if eliminated.

In the Trig Point area, page 301. 

Mike’s Arete – 7A LOW 7A+ SIT 7B – Climb Green And Black without the left arete. The low start is from RH on the rail and LH on low slopers, whereas the sitter is actually from sitting, with RH lower. VIDEO: Mike Adams 2015

On the highball buttress in the Trig Point area, page 301. VIDEO:

Turnpike Roof – 7A – Tackle the big roof (problem 24) via the good left hand hold on the lip, then slopey humping. George North 2015

Vangaurd – 7A – Climb the nose of the roof on its right (problem 25) with a slopey finish. RM 2014.

On the short wall in the corridor above and behind this buttress.

Matt’s Problem – SIT 6A – Climb the arete and pinches.

On the Hueco Block. Page 303.

Tom’s Problem – 6B+ – Between Ape Hour and the arete to the right, start low on the right arete up to the break then yard up with the left to a crimpy edge about 10 cm below the top in the middle of the bloc (above Ape Hour) then slap for glory.

Hueco Slab Traverse – 5+ – Start on the right arete of the slab. Traverse left and finish up Hueco Arete.

In the Short Routes area, Page 305.

Naomi’s Wall – 6B SIT 7B+ – The new sitstart goes from LH sidepull and RH flatty left of the arete. Make a big move to a distant sloper, then finish up Naomi’s Wall. VIDEO: Mike Adams 2015.

In the Beyond area. Page 309.

Helter Felt Ya – SIT 6B – The centre of wall between The Skelter and Merry Go Rounded. Start from RH sloper and LH sharp side pull. Pull up the wall without using aretes, though left hand side pull higher up is fine.

Kneegrinder – SIT 6B – Located on a small roof between problem 10 and 11, in the Beyond area. From sitting, climb direct over the roof. Photo HERE


A new topo for a previously undocumented area, with around thirty problems up to 7A. Developed and documented by Peter Chattle and friends


On Ash Pit Slabs.

Directissima – 6A SIT 7A – Use the big sidepull to make a hard sitstart onto the slab. Eliminating the two break slots and the flatty just above is The J P Sitter SIT 7B. Johnny Peak, date not known.


On The Corral p. 52

Herd It Here First  – 6A+ SIT 6B – Climb the arete on its left, from a sitter with hands on the lower block. Use the arete and anything you can reach.

On The Pinnacles p. 53

Hark To Bounty  – 4+ SIT 6A – Sitstart the left end face, using the right arete (this face is Hark To Bounty, although the line in the guidebook is not clear.)

Sneak To Bounty  – 4+ SIT 6B+ – The arete on its right has an awkward sitstart (this is the line mistakenly shown as Hark To Bounty in the guidebook).

Bounty Hunter – 5+ SIT 6C+ – Sitstart up the centre of the rippled wall to gain the standup.

On The Pinnacle itself.

Good Hiding – 6B SIT 7A – Climb the front-right arete from a tricky sitstart, to gain the rightwards leading holds. Follow these to the back arete and rock round at the jug to top out on the back of the pillar. RM 2017

The Ox Wrestler  – 6C – Start clamping the aretes and slap upwards. Finish via the jug on the right arete.

On the Stirk Slabs, p.56

Man’s Not Hot  – SIT 6B – Sitstart under the roof, hands matched on the blobby end of the obvious juggy ledge. Follow the ramp out to the lip and pull round to finish up Man Alive.

Breathe In – 4+ SIT 6C – Start both hands on the juggy ledge under the roof. Make a couple of powerful moves to gain holds up and right, then rockover back left to the ledge. Stay off the right arete.

On the Two Tier Buttress, p.58

Breathe In – SIT 7B+ – Project 18. Start on the obvious edge and traverse the lip to finish up the left arete. Greg Chapman 2019 PIC:


In the Small Quarry, pg. 130. A few problems on the lower tier have been extended due to landing changes.

This Game Of Golf – 5 SIT 6B – An awkward sitter from hands in the break. Avoid big holds out right. A footblock has been moved, though the standing start was also previously undergraded.

Calculus Made Easy – 6B – The wall just right of the crack. A tricky start leads to an interesting finish. Landing has been flattened, so this is harder than before.

Essentials Of The School Of Algebra – 6A – Climb just right of centre. Landing has been flattened.

In the Small Quarry upper tier, several problems have been cleaned and extended on the first buttress on the left.

Rainbow In The Sky – 2 SIT 4+ – Now the landing has been flattened, it’s possible to do a pleasant sitter. The standup is a touch harder if you don’t use holds left of the arete. VIDEO:

1356 – 4+ – The wall between arete and the crack to the right. Stay off the big footledge out right. There are some fun variations… VIDEO:

1356 Left – 6B – Start matched on the undercuts, then use only the left-most of the obvious crimps in the centre of the wall. VIDEO:

1356 Sans Crimps – 6C – Start matched on the undercuts but eliminate all the crimps in the centre of the wall. A great sequence on smears and undercuts leads upwards. VIDEO:

Leaf In The Storm – 4 SIT 5+ – Climb past the short crack and gain the big hole.

Bird Of Paradise – 5 SIT 6A – Make a tricky move to the jug in the breakline, then climb upwards, staying right of the big hole.

Cock It And Primp – 6C LOW 6C+ SIT 7A – Start beneath the crimp and pocket (right of the big jug). Make a tough sitstart to gain the pocket and crimp, then continue upwards without using the big jug. (If you struggle with the sitter, try the low from the undercuts.) RM 2016 VIDEO:

Contortions For Pleasure – 6B LOW 6B+ SIT 6C – Stay right of the crimp and pocket and left of the crack. An awkward sitter leads to a reach off undercuts for two poor crimps beneath the sandy depressions (don’t use the sandy bits, they just crumble). Gain a better hold just above and continue more easily. (If you struggle with the sitter, try the low from the undercuts.) VIDEO:

On the Red Wall, p.132

Clint Barton – SIT 7C – A blinkers variation on Hawkeye. Climb without the good edges to the right – gain the RH sloper, then poor gaston LH and pull through with RH to the crimp beneath the overlap. Finish as per usual.  Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: VIDEO 2:

On the boulders to the right, p. 133

Memorial – SIT 7B – Sitstart the short undercut boulder, with hands on the lip. A high right heel may help you make a big move up to a decent hold.  Project 12. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO:  VIDEO 2:

Eyrie – 7B – The excellent red wall up the slope. Make a super-tensiony pull to get onto the wall, and go for the juggy pocket. Project 13. RM 2019. VIDEO:

Maximus – SIT 7C+ – Sitstart as per Giganticus, but climb straight up the front of the boulder, using both aretes. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO:

On the River Blocks, p. 134. These problems are on the leftmost block.

Epitaxy – 7A SIT 7A+ – A variation on problem 1. Climb the wall between arete and big holds. Sitstart RH low undercling, LH crimp. Head for crimps on the face, then the top. RM 2018

The Shirking Man – 6C SIT 7A – Sitstart from RH sidepull in the low break. Making good use of the flake to the left, head to the undercling and horizontal pinch (standup), then work up to the top. RM 2016

The Hurly Burly – SIT 7B+ – Project 3. The direct line. Sitstart using the break sidepull for left hand. Stay right of the flake, both for hands and feet. Climb straight up, with crux moves on smears. RM 2018 VIDEO:

The Horse That Said Knee – 6A+ SIT 6B+ – On the right of this wall, from the big low hold (often damp, a towel is useful), slide in a kneebar, then head right to good holds on the arete, and back left to finish.

The Horse That Said Nay – SIT 7A – Eliminate the kneebar. From the same start, make a tough move to the good holds, via a tiny intermediate. RM 2018

In Weasel Quarry, p. 135.

The Axis Of Weasel – 6C SIT 6C+ – Climb the left arete of the main wall, to finish on whopping incut jugs. The left edge of the crack is not allowed. The sitstart is from the centre of the wall, and moves left to gain the standup as soon as possible. VIDEO:

Madferret – 7A+ SIT 7B – Fingery moves lead up the right side of the wall to a thin break. Traverse left to finish on the jug. The best sitstart is from the centre of the wall, and moves right via the undercut to gain the standing start. There is also a RH sitter at the same grade, from from LH sidepull, RH arete of crack. Nothing right of the crack is in. RM 2014. VIDEO (of RH sitter): VIDEO 2:


On the roof boulder, pg. 270.

Bring It On Down – 7B+ – Just right of the left arete, pull on to poor holds above the lip and climb to the top. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO :

Rise And Shine – LOW 7C – Start at the low right flake. Traverse left into Bring It On Down. No footblock. VIDEO:

Up The Sky – LOW 7B+ – Start at the low right flake. Traverse left and make a big move up to large slopers. No footblock. Mike Adams 2015 VIDEO:

Slide Away – LOW 7B+ – Start at the low flake. Climb the wall left of the arete. No holds right of the arete. No footblock. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Married With Children – SIT 7C+ – Start on the same flake as Get Your Fingers Out. Make a big move to slopers in the middle of the  wall. Match poor holds and head for the notch up and left. Stay off the big slopey jug to the left. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Divorced With Children – 8A – Start on the right arete jug. Traverse into Married With Children. Stay off the flake for both hands and feet. Stan Hunter 2021. VIDEO:

The Fool On The Hill – 7C – As per Married With Children, but finish up the left arete. Stan Hunter 2021. VIDEO:

In the quarry, pg. 272.

Low Feat – SIT 7A+ – The sitter to Hi, Feet. Start LH high sidepull and RH low right sidepull. RM 2016. VIDEO:

Music Or Kestrel – 6B SIT 7B – On the short green side of the quarry, climb the bulge from a tricky sitter to finish up the slabby upper section. RM 2016 VIDEO:

In the quarry, pg. 273.

Flying Cows – 7B – Problem 25. Gain the two big flat holds by stepping in from the side, or direct if you like. Launch for the obvious protruding jug higher up the wall. RM 2017 VIDEO:


Important access note & changes to guidebook directions – The stile has been removed. Access to the crag is still possible by several routes, described below and in this bing maps screenshot:×835.jpg

1. Take the footpath near where the stile used to be. This leads through nearby trees. Split off from this path to regain the old permissive path.  It is possible to stay on access land all the way to the crag.

2. Park to the north and take the public footpath to the building marked Stone Fold on the OS map. You can then go across access land over Crag Hill to access Crag Stones from the the back.

3. Park to the north and walk down the access road. This is likely to be a longer walk, but could be a good option in wet weather when the footpath is boggy.

Perfect Storm SIT 7C+/8A – The low start to Black Whirlwind. Start RH undercut, LH small crack on the face. The footblock is allowed (it has been done without, but is a poorer problem). A brilliant power pinching classic. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:


On the Fertile Delta wall, pg. 71.

Jack To The Beat – SIT 7C+/8A – Sitstart right of Fertile Delta and Delta force, below the middle section of the Blackpool Car Jack traverse. Feet in or around the big break (foot lock) and use a decent low LH hold and tiny RH crimp to pull on and up to a pair of small neighbouring crimps. Adjust and snatch up left to a reasonable edge. Now match in, gain the good slot and finish up Fertile Delta. Greg Chapman 2016. VIDEO


On Main Wall, pg. 94.

The Denham Traverse 7A+/7B – Traverse Main Wall Left from left to right, finishing on easier ground at Main Wall Middle. The climbing has changed significantly since a fire damaged holds on the crux, making the traverse temporarily unclimbable – John Roberts has stabilised the remaining holds and reclimbed the line. VIDEO:

Flake Or Forever Hold Your Peace 7B+ – Project 14. Climb up to a sidepull jug on the flake. Mike Adams 2016

In the Snap Derision Area, pg. 96.

Sygaldry SIT 7B – Project 9. Climb upwards from chipped graffiti. Mike Adams 2016

On the roof, pg. 97.

The Big Lip 7C+ – Project 17. Climb the awesome roof lip and top out. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO:


Scrittle Massala – 6A+ – Right of Tangled Up In Blue, climb the scoop feature on its right, above a terrible landing.

Love Dowe – SIT 6C+ – Right of the Scrittle Massala is a fin feature. Climb this on the left from a rather cramped ss on obvious undercut LH and RH on the fin. A very burly pull on is followed by a hearty lunge the to the opposite arete. Monkey up a stick moves lead shortly to a slopey top. PHOTO: Simon Huthwaite 2015

The Big Bad – SIT 7B/+ – Project 6 pg 264. Climb the wall with a big press for the top off pockets. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Pannikin – SIT 7B – Project 9 pg 264. A tough move to pull off the ground. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Little Vessel – SIT 7A – Project 7 pg 264. Mantel! Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Miss Perfect – 7B+ – Project 16 pg 265. The centre of the bulging wall. May be morpho. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Fat Sloper Action – 7A – The wall a few metres right of Tufa From Home, in the gully. Pull on to the fat sloper with both hands then go for the top. RM 2015. VIDEO:

Talking Shillbut – 7A+ – Reclimbed after the lefthand pebble broke, no change in grade. VIDEO:


On the Upper Tier, p.193.

Competition Horror Show – 6B+ SIT 6C –  The sitter adds a grade.

Dingle – 5 SIT 6B –  The sitter adds interest. A nice heely move leads upwards.


All the routes described in the guidebook have fallen down. There are other routes in the quarry, but these were the best.


The Knockdown Sitstart – SIT 7C –  A link of Berth of a Tool into the Knockdown finish. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Thunderstruck – SIT 8A – The blunt end of the boulder, from sitting. Very Good! Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:


Harcles Dyno – 7C SIT 7C+ – Project 2 pg. 218. The wall left of the arete, with a huge dyno to the break from small holds. Dawid Skoczylas 2016 VIDEO:

Three Mosquitos Here – 7A – The arete (just right of the dyno), climbed on its left, with a dynamic move to the ledge. Dawid Skoczylas, Mike Adams, RM 2016 VIDEO:

Spragless – SIT 7B – Project 6, pg. 218. From the sidepull slot, dyno up to the hole.Dawid Skoczylas, RM 2016 VIDEO:

The Sprag – SIT 7B+ – Project 6, pg. 218. The same problem, but without dynoing. There’s a funky sequence revolving round the thumb sprag hold. Mike Adams, 2016 VIDEO:


Turron Blando – 7B – Pull on to the wall left of Grabadabadoo arete using RH gaston and LH crimp. The top is reached via a big move. RM 2015. VIDEO:

William The Bear – 7B SIT 7B+ – Sitstart Barmfingers then swing left and climb the groove (standing start here) via a high foot and a big lock off. RM 2018. VIDEO:

Aunty Climax – SIT 6C –  Climb the left arete of Pop, on its right, with hands on the arete only, going for the top of the arete, not out right. Don’t use the footblock – it’s an awkward sitter but just about works if you arrange mats, and the climbing is decent. RM 2018.

Momentary Violin – 6B –  Project 26. Climb the hanging wall without using anything below the lip. One tricky move to pull on, then easy to the top.

Feed Me – 5+ SIT 7A –  Sitstart with hands on lip pinches and a foot on the solid lump out left, pull up to better holds. Surmount the lip (standup) and finish straight up. Stay off the other chossy foot possibilities in the cave. RM 2018. 

More new problems have been done in the side quarry, mentioned in the red text at the end of the chapter. Topo here: and VIDEO of The Snag, 6C:


Jammy Bastard – SIT 6B+ – Climb Expletive p.281 by jamming the break.

Unnamed – 5+ – Project 1, p.281.Start in the pit, from holds on the back wall.

Shelf Life – SIT 7A+/B – Similar to problem 4, p.282. Sitstart but stay off the arete. RM 2015. VIDEO:


Pandora’s Box LH – 6A SIT 7B – The sitter adds a big move on from underclings. Feet anywhere. Mike Adams 2018. VIDEO:

Pandora’s Box – SIT 7A+ – The sitter adds a big move on from underclings. Feet anywhere. Mike Adams 2018. VIDEO:

Monowad – SIT 8A – Sitstart from RH undercling, LH tiny edge. Finish up Chimp And Chips. (Project 6 in guide). Mike Adams 2018. VIDEO:

Astrochimp – 7C+ – Start LH sidepull, RH mono. Go to the top. (Project 7 in guide) Mike Adams 2018. VIDEO:

Bradley Jackson has added some problems on the Platform Wall, a short wall reached by following the large main path through the quarry to its end. These are all around 5+/6A. There are some lines still to do, but cleaning is needed. There is a topo here


In the Clown’s Pocket area.

Pursuit Of Slappiness – 7A SIT 7A+ – The obvious sitstart has now been done, starting in the centre of the wall then moving out left to finish up the arete. Problem 1 in the guidebook. RM 2014. VIDEO:

The Lamp – 5 SIT 7A – Left of Steep Start Wall (problem 3) and right of the corner. Sitstart from curving LH edge and low RH sidepull. Make a tough move up and left to better holds, then carry on to the good ledge (and beyond if you like). Stand Geoff Hibbert 2010. Sit RM 2018.

Dragon Horse – sport 7b+ – Left of Steep Start Wall (problem 3) and right of the corner. Start from good holds just right of the corner. Traverse right, staying below the break. Finish on the flake just right of Crescent of Embrace. Steven Li 2016.


On the highball wall, pg. 79

Wacker Watkins – 6B – Project 11. Climb the left arete on its right throughout. Matt Troillett 2016

The Big Fish – 6B+ – Project 13. Climb the wall between Ribblesdale High and the corner crack. Matt Troillett 2016


On the Left Section, pg. 108

The Erotic Fiction Of Robyn Mulah – 7A SIT 7B+ Climb the left side of the wall featuring The Wierdy Hole. RH good edge and LH flakes lead the way to a tricky move for jugs. Finish here. The sitter goes from a good hold low on the left. Big move right to gain the central edge and rock back left for the standup. Nik Jennings 2016. SIT Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO: VIDEO (SIT):

Darkthrone – 7A+ SIT 7B – Only just left of The Wierdy Hole, use a rough little hold for RH and LH on the good low edge. A tough move gains a higher sidepull then jugs to the left. Finish here. The sitter is from the break. Project 4 in the guide. RM 2016 SIT Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: VIDEO (SIT):

On the Right Section, pg. 109

Back, Sack And Crack – SIT 7B – The wall left of the arete, from sitting. Start on low crimps, hoik your feet up and move right to finish up the crack. No back wall for feet. RM, Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO:

Knowle Edmunds – LOW 8A – Start LH Arete, RH undercut. Power up to a crimp on the face and finish upwards. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO:

  • LEE

In the Far Bay, see map on pg. 232. Downclimb or drop off at the top.

Toad Of Resistance – 7A+ The wall left of the arete, without using the arete or the niche up and left. Dynamic. RM 2015.

Truntillio – 6B – The arete on its left.

Amagicka – 6B – The wall just right of the corner, with a big foothold to rock onto.

Omeron – 6C – From holds on the slopey feature, rock left to better edges.

Ode To Persistence – 7C+ The blank wall left of the crack. From undercuts, head for lip slopers and traverse left to finish in the corner. A tiny crimp may or may not be of use. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO:

Opposite the Far Bay main wall is a short overhanging wall. Again, drop off rather than topping out.

The Wind Cries Lairy – 7B – From the left end, traverse rightwards below the break. Finish on the large jug. RM 2015

Oversight – 6A – Traverse the break from left to right.

Rip Van Crimple – SIT 7A – Sitstart the wall with a heel in the big low hold. RM 2016

Bunch Of Fool – SIT 7B – Sitstart from both hands in the big low hold. Awkward. RM 2015

Finders Weepers – SIT 7A – Sitstart just right of the big low hold. RM 2015

In the Cul-de-sac, p. 235 is a wall with a brilliant feature. This wall is best visited in summer, as it is often damp during the rest of the year.

The Longest Sloper In The World – 6A – Balance upwards.

Shapeshifter – 6B – Climb past the right end of the sloper, with an awkward move to reach it.

Pull-De-Sac – 6C – Climb edges to an interesting top section using thin horizontal pinches. Avoid stepping left to the sloper.

Scent Of A Human – 6B – Make interesting moves to gain the small nose, then the top.

In Rocket End, p. 235

Just Fear – 7A – The block with a protruding roof is tackled via a scary dyno. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO:

On the Pool Block, p. 233

Rocksucker – 7A SIT 7B/7C – The sitter to rocksucker adds good and hard moves. Start with hands on the ledge. SIT Mike Adams 2015

Ovinity Phase 4 – SIT/LOW 7B+ – With hands on poor low crimps, bicycle the highest footblock (feet no lower than this) and snatch upwards to finish as per Phase 3. Mike Adams 2015


Darren Sturgess has added a few problems on the beach left of the DWS area at Lester Mill – pg. 126. ….As with all of this area, water levels may vary, but these are climbable as of October 2014. I’ve put Darren’s topo photos together in a PDF, which you can print off, fold backwards in the middle and insert into your guidebook. PDF DOWNLOAD HERE

In the Top Bay, pg. 125, on the short wall just left of Project 3. Pic HERE.

It Aint No X Factor – SIT 7A – From sitting, climb the short wall, using the cracks. Darren Sturgess 2014

Creep – SIT 7B – From sitting, follow just the slanting crack leftwards. Darren Sturgess 2014

On the boulder.

Dawid’s Reach – SIT 7C – RH on the sloper, LH on a small edge near the far lip. This is the last hard move of Bulldozer. Dawid Skoczylas 2016

Bulldozer – SIT 8A – Project 1a in the guidebook. RH on the sloper, LH big undercut near the lip. Clamp out to finish via Dawid’s Reach. Dawid Skoczylas 2016 VIDEO:

Rubblemaster – 7C – LH on the sloper,  RH on a slightly slanting slimper above head height. Head straight up. Dawid Skoczylas 2016

Tendon Heights – Once 7A now 7B – Pull on to tiny edges just right of centre. Rock onto a foot and slap the top. A handhold has broken – the new suggested grade is 7B. Dawid Skoczylas 2016 VIDEO:

Bluster – SIT 7B – LH edge in the roof, RH lip. Feet on the footblock. Work rightwards to finish up Blister via the easy sequence. Dawid Skoczylas, RM 2016

Blister Easy – SIT 7A   Sitstart as per Blister, but rock round to finish on the right. Dawid Skoczylas, RM 2016

Pester Pill – SIT 6C – On the wall right of the Blister block, climb the line between the left arete and central crack. Dawid Skoczylas, RM 2016

Lester Tester – LOW 7A+   The wall right of the central crack. Start matched on the waist-high undercut. Climb the wall, making use of handholds on the left arete of the small groove, but nothing in the groove, or further right. Dawid Skoczylas, RM 2016

More problems have been done in another bay on the upper tier. One of these is:

Slopen Your Mind – 7B – Dyno to the top from the slopey hold in the mid-height seam. Dawid Skoczylas 2016


Bionic Harmonic – SIT 7C  – Link Extra Bacon into Body Bionics. RM 2015. VIDEO:

Bionical Overtone Harmonic – SIT 7C  – Climb Bionic Harmonic to the arete, then rock rightwards onto the slab to finish. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO:

The Wizard Of Tod – SIT 7B – From sitting, climb Tantalicious without the footledge. John Wilson 2014.

Boardwalk Empire – SIT 7A – Start on the jug of Footloose And Fancy Free. Traverse right to finish up Tantalicious, without using any holds below the lip. The footledge is allowed. John Wilson 2014.


Ringdance – SIT 7A+  – At the back of the middle bay, there is an overhanging wall hidden  in a corner. Sitstart this from the right arete and traverse left to pull round the left arete and finish on the face. RM 2015.

Stutter Step – SIT 7A  – Climb the wall just right of the slot, without using the slot. RM 2015.

Bad Mama Jama – 7A+  – In the end bay, climb the tall arete on its left. Stay right of the corner crack. Problem 23, pg. 144. RM/DS 2016.

Battlestar – 7B LOW 7B+ SIT 7C  – The bulging wall right of the Indian Face arete, using anything except the left arete. The low start is from matched on the undercling. Stand & Low Start Dawid Skoczylas 2016, SIT RM 2016.


All the latest additions are featured in this PDF. Print, fold backwards and slot into your guidebook:

With the new additions, Ousel’s boasts enough 7’s to keep most people busy for some time. Several of these are also quite highball – ticking off “The Ouselballs” is a decent achievement. VIDEO:

The undercut bulge on the left end of the crag features a few problems that didn’t quite make it into the guidebook.

Nutcracker – 7C+ – From the large flat jug, follow the crack leftwards to the other big flat jug. Holds above the crack are out, as is the large footledge. RM 2014.

Notcracker – 6B – As per Nutcracker, but use the footledge. Same grade in both directions.

Oddstart – 6A – Start matched on the undercling. Use the footledge and climb straight up through the bulge to a good ledge.

The Groove – 6A – Climb the groove, finishing on the high jugs above the right arete.

The Groove Sans Footblock – 6C – This time, eliminate the protuding footblock.

The Groove Right – 7A – Start on edges at the base of the right arete. Pull into the groove and work upwards. Eliminate the protruding footblock. RM 2014.

Crucifixed – 7A – Make a hard move to gain the crack right of the arete, then finish on jugs above. RM 2014.

Crucifiddled – 7B – This time, no arete. Climb a fingery sequence to the direct to the finish jugs. RM 2019. VIDEO:

The Ten Year Itch – 7B – Just right of the blank wall, tick-tack up twin cracks to gain good flat edges. Highball. RM 2014.

Zendik Area

Brick Shaped Dreams – 6C – Climb the arete of Yahoo! to gain the ramp, then move right and make crux moves to gain a good high jug.

Backwards Magic – 7A+ – Take the Zendik crimp with LH and pull through to underclings just above. Finish on the high jug. RM 2014.

Ring Ooze – 7B – Extend Tappings Of Power with hard moves to gain higher crimps, then bust rightwards to finish on high jugs. Paul Robins 2014.

Faith And Energy Area

Meeting Palms – 7C – The arete left of Chicken Wings, finishing matched on the obvious super slopey shelf. Problem 7 in the guide. Dawid Skoczylas 2014. Note: Grade is a guess for average height people. If you are tall enough to keep feet on the break it isn’t 7C.

Parting Of Palms – 8A+ – The highball extension to Meeting Palms. From the sloper, continue up the arete until you can reach right to the huge finishing slot. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO:

Far Right

Egyptology – 6C SIT 7A+ – Sitstart twin cracks left of the corner. Gain thin crimps, then make a hard move for a hold on the left arete, then finish on jugs in the break above.


Kam Start – 5+ – The start of the route Kam. Climb from one break to the next VIDEO:

Pizzy – 6A – Just right of Kam and left of the crack, climb the wall to a break. VIDEO:

Pit Club – SIT 7C – Project 8, pg. 201. Pull up to the break, then make a hard to move to a slanting finish hold. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO:

Danger Dusk – 7C+ – Project 3. Start a metre right of the left end of the overlap, on LH undercut and RH edge. Reach a high gaston and work up to a finish on a jug above the next overlap. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO:

Hardboiled – 7A – Traverse the Parboiled wall. The same grade in either direction. Marc Bellinghall 2016 VIDEO:


There are several new problems in The Pit. VIDEO: and another video from Andrew Dixon of his new traverse:

Pitfool – 7A SIT 7A+ – The wall just right of the arete, with a big move from crimps to the top. All footholds to the left are allowed, except the big ledge. RM 2018 VIDEO:


Dagger Traverse – 7A+ – The traverse project mentioned in the guide, starting from Kebab House and finishing up Flying Truck. Chris Thornton 2015. VIDEO:

More new problems have been done by Chris Thornton. See topo here: and VIDEO:


On the wall beneath Lancastrian HVS 5b, there are a couple of nice problems which finish at the break. This is the first obvious buttress left of Whisker.

Lancastrian – SIT 5 – Sitstart on the footblock then get the chipped hold and finish on the break. Not the main attraction.

The Mysterious Mr Underfinger And His Mostly Tame Thunder Singer – 6C SIT 6C+ – Sitstart on the footblock then use the undercuts to gain the break up and right. Stay off the chipped hold and the holds above that. VIDEO:

Sandhand – SIT 6B – Sitstart the right arete, staying off the large footblock. VIDEO:

Further right from Whisker and Catfoot, about 20m left of Oli’s prow, the ground rises and the top of the crag drops to form a topout niche. This is just left of the route Manque De Ville VS 4c. The wall here makes a good problem…

Bring Dem Hops – 7A SIT 7A+ – Use the slopey LH pocket to spring for the top. Stay away from the crack to the left and the good finger-slot to the right. VIDEO:


Sladen Roof Direct – SIT 7B – Eliminate the crack and go straight to the lip. Jeremy Drabble 2014. VIDEO:

Sladen Noize – SIT 7A+ – Start on lip holds and head up to the middle jug as per Sladen Roof. All footblocks are out (toe down on an edge out right.) Peter Edwards 2014-20


On pg. 101.

Another World – 8A SIT 8A+/B – Sitstart from the low edge, as per Backslash. Head right to gain RH undercut and LH sidepull (stand), then continue up the arete. No back wall or chossy pillar.   RM 2016 SIT RM 2020 VIDEO:

BIFFA Bastards – 7C – The tall wall in the dip, using a toehook on the arete of the crack. Project 5. Tom Newman 2021 VIDEO:

On pg. 102.

Two Tough – SIT 7A+ – Sitstart from the jugs of Sandman and move right to finish up Two Right. RM 2016

Two Right – 7A SIT 7A – Sitstart from the base of the arete. Adds a bit, but not a full grade. As with the stand, don’t use the crack. RM 2016

On the Red Wall, pg. 105

Martian Dust – SIT 7C+ – Project 5. Sitstart and climb rightwards to gain the slot and finish up Too Hard For Greg Rimmer. Mike Adams 2016

Reg Grimmer – 7A –  Start LH on a pocket (used for RH on Too Hard For Greg Rimmer). Rocking to a flake and trend up right. Paul Robins 2017

Right of Red Wall and left of Fridgehugger are some slabs.

New Old Lands – 6B+ – Climb the centre of the widest slab, starting from one hand in the pockets. Stay off big holds up and left. Finish at the break, or quest upwards if you feel the need for adventure. PHOTO

Brown Bear – 7B – Climb the black streak on the right side of the widest slab, via a high LH undercut/thumb sprag and then a thin crimp layaway out right. Step up on a smear and slap the break. Stay off big footholds to the left. Paul Robins 2017


Important access note & changes to guidebook directions – Due to the erection of new fences, the parking described in the guidebook has become problematic for the farmer, who needs the space to turn his vehicle. Please do not use this parking spot. Please park next to the White House pub, as for Cow’s Mouth and Blackstone Edge. From here, walk towards Cow’s Mouth and continue on to the reservoir, with Stony Edge behind. This approach is slightly longer, but flat the whole way.

On the Pathside Roof, pg. 251

NOTE: For the Pathside Roof, it’s now best to park at the bottom of the hill, near the canal, and walk up the road. Approx 20min.

Turkey Delight – LOW 7A+ – From the break, reach through the centre of the roof to a hold past the lip. Head left to gain the arete, then go for the top. Barrie Kershaw 2018. VIDEO

On the Big One, pg. 254

Bargle Blaster – SIT 7A+ – Extend Argle Bargle to finish up Baby Bouncer. Fantastically pumpy. (Note: Argle Bargle is now considered 7A). RM, Andy Emery, James Williamson 2014. VIDEO

Baby Bouncer – SIT 6C+ – This has now been done from a proper sitstart, though shorter folk will struggle. No change in grade. A sitter from lower may be possible, but much harder.

Argy Bargy – 6B+ – Climb straight into the finish of Argle Bargle.

The Grit Award – SIT 7A+ – Sitstart the Argle Bargle arete and rock rightwards to gain holds on the ledge right of the arete. A weird mantel/flop move allows you to reach the top of the boulder. Problem 12 in the guide. RM 2014.

On smaller boulder near the Big One, pg. 254

Late To The Party – SIT 6A – Sitstart as per Laugh A Minute, then traverse right at mid height. Top out just right of Stop A Second.

On the Back Edge, pg. 257

A Is For Aardvark – 6A SIT 6B+ – A sistart has been added.

Gritworm 6B SIT – 6B+ – This does go from a proper sitstart using holds right of centre, rather than just a low start. No change in grade.

Near the RB Slab, pg. 259

It Would Be Who Of You – 7A+ SIT 7B – Problem 14 in the guide. Mantel the hold. Impressively flashed by the FA. Oli Mueller 2014. A sitstart has been added. Oli Mueller 2015 Pic:


On the rogue boulder.

Stumped – SIT 7B – Start LH on the RH start hold of Noisy Cricket, RH on the obvious good edge on the right. Pull up to get RH on a crimp on Evil Leaper, then LH on a crimp on Noisy Cricket. Bradley Bushell 2021 VIDEO:

Six Or Sticks – SIT 7C – Start on the obvious good edge on the right and traverse left (using a handhold on the flake below the lip) to finish up Noisy Cricket. The footblock on the right is out. Caleb Ainsworth 2015

Grasshopper – SIT 7C+ – Start on the obvious good edge on the right and traverse left, with no handholds below the lip. Finish up Noisy Cricket. The footblock on the right is out. Peter Wilkinson 2015 VIDEO

Grasshopper LH – SIT 7C – As before, but use all the tricks to gain the left crimp with RH, then reach top with LH. Ted Kingsnorth 2020 VIDEO:

Evil Leaper – SIT 7C – Start on the obvious good edge on the right. Start right heel on face. No footledge, but anything else is fair game (there’s a key kneebar).Pull up to good RH hold, get LH out, then work up to pop for the top. Mike Adams, RM 2016 VIDEO

Grimlock – SIT 8A – Start on the obvious good edge on the right. Feet start on back wall. No footblocks on right. Pull up to good LH hold, then bump right up to high ripples and go for the top. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO 1 VIDEO 2

In the left bay, pg. 112.

Finesse – 7B+ – The excellent technical bulge. Project 2. Mike Adams, RM 2016 VIDEO

In the right hand bay.

Anhedonia – 6B – Just right of Tony Bland (19), use the vertical crack for LH and make a big move to the curving crack up and right. Finish on the break jug just above. VIDEO

Bilateral Vasectomy – 6B – Just right of the arete problem Notch (21), climb the wall between the arête and corner, using the upper inner arête.

Great Expectations – 6C – Just right of the arete problem Notch (21), climb the wall between the arête and corner, staying off the upper arete. Dave Mann 2017 VIDEO:


From Warland Parking, follow the gentle uphill approach to Summit Quarry. Just before the left bend at the top of the track, drop downhill to find this boulder in the gully. It has recently been buried as a consequence of the farmer’s track building activities, but the problems have been unearthed once more. They could perhaps use a little more digging, but they are all climbable.

Waterworks – SIT 7B – Sitstart from LH low undercut, RH on the apex of the arete. Make a tensiony pull to bring left hand up, then work leftwards up the arete to gain the far lip. Move left until it is possible to rock onto this, using the arete. RM 2017 VIDEO:

Summer Sloper Showdown – SIT 7C – Start as per Waterworks, then move left to mantel the lip, via a high sidepull on the slab. Mike Adams 2019 VIDEO:


Walk past the main quarry with the quarry on your left. After 100m there is another small quarry on the left. This contains one small undercut block with several squat-and-reach-the-lip problems. These are best done without using the low left plinth, or any footholds below the level of the allowed ledges. Grades from 6A to 7A. The landing is flat but drops away sharply after one metre – some will find this fine, others may not be happy without a spotter.


A newly developed block is situated on the downhill side of the main approach track, some 80m past the Crag Boulders. Once level with the block (which can be seen from above) it is a further 10-15m down the slope. There is a small cairn on top of the block to make identifying it a little easier. The climbing is on the NE face.

Shades Of Jae – 7B+ – the appealing headwall of the steep roof from its left side, starting on a side pull pinch, dished edge and left sloping heel all on the very lip of the roof (any potential foot blocks are to be considered out of bounds). From this position roll up and over to a tilted LH crimp before matching in and tick-tacking up on slopey edges to the top. Greg Chapman 2014. Pic and full report:

On the Trackside Boulders.

Uzi 9mm – SIT 6C+ – Sitstart on an obvious blunt nose hold beneath the lip and to the right of the Guns ‘n’ Ammo arete. Throw a heel on and match the sloper at the base of the arete, then follow the lip round and finish up Knights of the Turntables.

In the Upper Crag sector, pg. 37. About 10m of Return Of The Fly.

Salacious Crumb – SIT 7B+ – Sitstart in the pit before moving on to the left side of the arete and heading direct for the top. Greg Chapman 2016. PHOTO:

  • TROY

In the Recessed Bay, pg. 207, several lines have been done around Project 14.


Waterbaby – 6A SIT 6C+ – The standout line, on great rock. Climb the waterside arete on its right, to finish at the break up and right. Traverse carefully and step off.The sitstart adds great moves on backhand pinches – stay off the footledge, it’s 6B using this. You can also link the sitstart into the rightwards traverse, which is about the same grade. PIC:

Landshark – 6B+ SIT 7B – Pull on just right of the arete, then traverse right across the face and up to the break. The arete is off-limits. No footledge. Stand RM 2014. Sitstart Mike Adams 2015.

Landshark Direct Finish – SIT 7B – Sitstart Landshark then continue straight up, with a tricky move to a sloper on the upper arete. Sitstart Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

On the Little Buttress, pg. 209.

Jack the Giant Slayer – 7C+ SIT 8A+ – Climb Magic Beans to the flat hold, then finish up the left side of the arete. Mike Adams 2016.


There are some entertaining problems at the back of the boulders. In a small corner gully near the steam: there are some often mucky problems which are entertaining when dry.  

The Dwelling – SIT 6A – Left of the corner is a rippled wall. The left arete of this is climbed from super low – burrow down to start with both hands in the break. A heel-toe is useful to get moving. VIDEO:

The Green Eyed Lobster – 6A – Just right of the corner, start LH undercling jam, RH shelf. Stay off the crack/arete.

Gullet – 6B – Climb the centre of the wall with a tricky mantel to get started.  In a tiny corridor at the centre of the boulderfield: the green wall has a sitstart.

John’s Sitter – SIT 6A – Use protrusions and the good foothold to sitstart the centre of the wall.

Project – To the left is a slanting rib. Sitstart this.

  • WILTON 1

The Move – 7A SIT 7A+ LOW 7B – A new sitter to the standup. Doesn’t add any hard moves but the standup was pretty tough so this probably edges into the next grade. Start from the back of the roof. The low start eliminates the back wall and starts from hanging, with RH pinch at the back of the roof, LH pinching the fat rib above the lip. RM 2014. VIDEO:

The Move Footless – 7B –  As described in the guide. Adam reckoned 6C/+, but he thought The Move was 6B. Adam Hughes 2015.

Snakey Beeline – SIT 7B+ – A high extenstion to Snakey B. Climb Snakey B to the usual finish, then head up and right to gain the high slanting jug, via a gaston and matchstick edge. RM 2014. VIDEO:

Midgesquito Crimpelopes – 7A+ SIT 7B – A new sitter to the standup – Start from the big LH sloper and any crimp for RH. Gain the central hold and pull into the standup. Problem 2, page 166. RM 2014. VIDEO: On the inside of The Prow.

Whopper Popper – 7A+ – An eliminate dyno on Yoga For Climbers. Keep feet low and use the left chip mark. Phil Jackman 2020. Page 168.

Jim’s Slab – 7A+ – The direct finish to Flywalk Slab, without stepping right to the finishing ledge of Flywalk. Jim Holmes, date unknown. Problem 18, page 169.

Veteran Cosmic Rocker – 7B+ – This is best climbed direct (the original started up the left then swung round the arete on pinches) and makes a brilliant highball. VIDEO:

Mad Man’s Monologue – 7C SIT 8A – Project 7 pg. 172. Sitstart at obvious sidepull and slot. Climb left to a sloper right of the corner crack, then head for the obvious finishing hold. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO:

A Pleasant Disappointment – 7A+ – Project 7 pg. 175. The highball wall, via crimps, sidepulls, and a deep slot. Head for the high sloper, then make one last move to jugs up and right. Descend down Gravitational Experiment to the left. Mike Adams 2016

  • WILTON 2

On the recently developed Steps Wall, which is the leftmost bit of rock in the quarry, near the steps. The arete is 6A from sitting, and the wall to the right 4+ from the shelf. The two harder problems are:

Reach For The Tsars – SIT 7A – Sitstart at the arete, then swing left to climb the wall via the decent RH sidepull. RM 2018 VIDEO: VIDEO:

Stepmother – LOW 7B – Start matched on underclings. Eliminate the big sidepull and climb the wall via poor edges. RM 2018 VIDEO:

On pg 177.

Letter From A Thief – 7A – Project 9. Start in the corner and traverse left to a good hold, staying below the high jug line. Joe Richards 2021 VIDEO:

The Winter Mist – SIT 7A+ – Sitstart to Derring Do. Stay off the arete. Joe Richards 2021 VIDEO:

On the slab, pg 181.

The Mouse’s Gauntlet – 7B+ LOW The wall left of Purple Feel, without the big hold up and left. Pull on LH poor crimp out left, RH low sidepull. Rock on to the edge and make a stretch for a very slopey sidepull out right. Pull upwards to finish using holds either side of the rib. RM 2017 VIDEO:

Footless Fun – 6A – Just a daft bit of fun – smear up The Undercut without using hands, to finish stepping rightwards on the arete ledge.

See Wilton Extra Topo for more problems in this area.

On the Hidden Wall, pg 178.

Laminar Flow – SIT 7C – Project 5. From sitting, move left to gain the thin sidepull, then head to the break and match to finish. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Turbulent Flow – SIT 7C+ – Project 6. From sitting, gain undercuts and make a big move for the ledge. Match to finish. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

  • WILTON 3

The Starship Wilton Direct – SIT 7C – The logical progression and a much better problem. From a start matched on the slot, pull out of the small roof to small face holds and finish up the nose. Big holds out left are off limits, as are all foot ledges and sidewalls. RM 2015. VIDEO:

Rodin’s Requiem II – LOW 8A – Start matched on the jug below the gastons. No footblock. Pull into the gastons and finish as per the stand. Jack Palmieri 2021

Rodin’s Requiem Sitstart – SIT 8A – Sitstart and climb into the standup, via a hard move from a small RH sidepull to gain the big LH layaway, then another tough move to gain a RH on the large square-cut hold. Mike Adams 2015 VIDEO:

A few new problems have been done on the Gameplay wall, p.184. They are also covered in detail in the Wilton Extra Topo.

Tiberian Sun – 4 SIT 5+ – The left arete.

Tour Of Abusey – SIT 6B – From the arete, traverse the lip right and finish via a right-facing rockover to gain the right arete, then the top.

Abusey Junction – 7A SIT 7B+ – The wall left of Gameplay, via sidepulls and a tiny crimp. An undercut helps on the sitter. VIDEO: RM 2019

Eliminate Crack – 6A+ – The project listed on Orange Wall. Climbed years ago by John Hartley et al.

Sloping Oldies – 6B – An old eliminate problem.  Start matched on the big sidepull in the crack. Move left to get both hands on slopers, then pop for the jug up and left. That’s it!

Near problem 11, p.187. To the right and set back a little is an old HVS which makes a fun highball.

Finger Distance – 6B – Climb the wall between arete and crack.

  • WILTON 4

Sally – 6A – At the left end of the crag, the VS 5c Sally is a good highball above pads. Due to landing changes it is now a little taller and a little harder than it once was. Chunky climbing with interesting moves. Topping out past the heather is a little sketchy, much like the Long Back Wall at Brownstones.

Sitting On Sally – SIT 6CSitstart the VS Sally at the left end of the crag. Stay off the crack out left (6A with this). Awkward moves lead into the standup. Drop off at good jugs or carry on to the top.

Hell’s Bells 7A – The E5 6b in the dip, climbing into the forked crack. Has now been done as a highball boulder problem above pads. Bring all your pads and spotters for this one. Excellent! VIDEO:

White Horse 7A+ – The E4 crack where the ground starts to rise. Laybacking and a couple of big pulls. VIDEO:

Haig 7A+ – An old E2 6b. The thin crack is climbed via gnarly finger jams. VIDEO:

The Last Drop – 8A – AKA The Big Four Project, Problem 3. Climb the impressive wall between crack and arete. RM 2019.

Nowt But Chips – 7A+ SIT 7B+ – A strict version of Burnley Fish And Chips Since 1971. Climb the arete using no hand-holds further than 30cm from the arete itself. For the standing start pull on with LH bobbly crozzle, RH arete. The crux of the standing start is likely to be very size-dependant – longer-armed folk will be able to do it in one big stretch at an easier grade. RM 2014. VIDEO:

Ultimate Arete Experience – 6B+ SIT 7A – Sitstart the arete on its right. Stay off the good holds up and right (used on TBOJA). VID: SIT Tom Coulthard, RM 2016

The Ballad Of John Axon – 6A SIT 6BA sitstart has now been done, using the arete to start. A tricky move via a small RH undercut leads to the huge sidepull and then the top. VIDEO:

Dimple – 6B – An old problem that should really have been in the guidebook. On the wall right of the Burnley… arete, start as far right as possible on undercuts and traverse left to gain the good holds and finish up The Ballad Of John Axon.

Pimple – 7A+ – A high variation of Dimple. From the furthest right undercuts, step leftwards onto the line of poor footholds and pull across the undercuts to finish up The Ballad Of John Axon. The low footledge used on Dimple is not allowed. RM 2014.

Nemesis – LOW 7C – Climb the central crack in the red wall, on its right. Start standing with hands on the lowest undercuts. Sequency and thin. The footledge is allowed. RM 2014. (Update – sitstart with hands on undercuts is nicer, no change to grade.) VIDEO:

Nemesister – SIT 7C+ – Start LH crack, RH undercut. No footledge. Make tensiony moves leftwards across underclings to finish up Nemesis. RM 2019.

Rhamnousa – 7C+ – Just right of Nemesis. Start on chest high sidepulls. Sitstart with footledge adds no grade. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

Rhamnousa Sitter – SIT 8A – Start LH crack, RH undercut. No footledge. RM 2019.

The Perfect Catch – 7B+ – Just right again. From the good sidepull, make a huge move for the finger jug on the lip, up and slightly left. Sit start is a project. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:

These problems are also detailed in the Wilton Extra Topo.

Further right the walls get taller. On the back wall of the quarry, just right of the corner is a clean arete.

Human Wave – 6B – Climb the fine arete on its left, finishing up the short groove. Highball. To top out, preplace a rope from the stake to pull past the towering choss, or downclimb if confident. VIDEO:


Visible over the gully from the car park is a short, tilted block. This is a nice 5min amble from the car – head to the dam and turn left. Drop down the slope when you are above the boulder. There are a few sitstarts and a good traverse. Bring a good pad (two for the traverse) as landings are rocky.

Virgil – SIT 6B+ – Start matched on sidepulls. Slap the lip and continue straight up.

Dante – SIT 6A+ – The central line, with a left-facing sitstart on underclings.

Alighiero – SIT 6A+ – The right arete on its left. Avoid the break out right, though its fine to use this at the top. Finish direct. VIDEO:

Inferno – SIT 7B+ – Start matched on sidepulls. Throw for the lip and head rightwards to finish around the arete. Stay below the break (though you can use it once past the arete). RM 2015 VIDEO:

There are some boulders on the opposite side of the valley to those described in the guidebook. To reach these, follow the reservoir track from the car park without turning at the dam. When the track makes a sharp bend to the left, there are two gates leading uphill. Take the second gate. Follow this path until you can turn left between a stone wall and a low line of rocks in a banking. Drop down when possible to reach the prominent Castle boulder or continue to reach the Ridge boulders.

On the Castle boulder:

Hustle Back – 5 – Climb just right of the arete. VIDEO:

Muscle Tack – 6B – Climb the central line, staying off jugs to either side. A tricky move from a flake leads to a lip sloper, then the top. VIDEO:

Castle Black – LOW 6A – Start crouched on the plinth. Gain the juggy shelf, then the top. VIDEO:

Body Slack – LOW 6A – The green wall right of the arete. Start crouched on the plinth, gain the shelf, then push rightwards on green holds to the top.

The first Ridge boulder is an oddly angled block with some great holds and a few sitstarts:

The Real Funk – 4+ SIT 5+ – Sitstart the arete and top out via the blobs.

The Seal Punk – 5+ SIT 6B – Sitstart at the obvious edges and make a tricky move for the top, using the right arete as much as you like. Usw the right arete to pull over the lip.

The Veal Monk – 6A SIT 6B+ – Sitstart at the obvious edges and head straight up and over, without using the right arete. VIDEO:

The Crunk – SIT 6C – Sitstart as per Veal Monk (no right arete) and traverse the lip leftwards to finish round the far left arete.

The Ridge Roof is just below the stone wall:

Bitter Sitter – SIT 6A+ – Just right of the left arete, head straight up.

Butter Flutter – SIT 6B – Climb via the large sloper and the positive crack.

King Of The Myrmidons – SIT 7A – Start with hands anywhere right of the crack and traverse left below the top. Gain the left arete and rock round this to finish. RM/John Wilson 2015. VIDEO:

Back at the main crag, there is a fun cantilevered roof which offers a couple of entertaining lowballs.

Grey Mare – SIT 6C/7A – On the left side of  the roof. Start at the obvious jug and slap left until you can get a foot up and rockover. This is project 16 though the line drawn in the topo isn’t quite right. RM 2015. VIDEO:

Knightmare – SIT 6B+ – On the right side of the roof. Start at the slopey protusions and slap the lip. VIDEO:

In the top cluster of boulders…

Si’s Slab – 5+ – The slab left of problem 7.

Si’s Sitter – SIT 6A – Sitstart the cleft between problems 7 and 8, on its right