This page features any projects completed since the publication of the guidebook. Come here before visiting a venue if you want to know what new problems have been done. Crags are listed in alphabetical order. If you’ve done the first ascent of a new problem, please let me know on lancashirebouldering[at]gmail.com and I’ll include it here.
This Youtube channel contains beta videos for lots of problems. https://www.youtube.com/user/quarriseur/videos
On Grey Wall, page 123. Project 11 has been climbed, though due to discovery of a previously buried foothold, this is not very hard or worthwhile. The arete climbed to the top may make a decent highball, but the landing would need flattening.
- BABY DENHAM
On the small vertical wall with the traverse Bumble Town.
Turkey Mania – SIT 7B – Sitstart facing left with a high left heel. Make a hard rockover up and left to finish up the left side of the wall. Barrie Kershaw 2018. VIDEO https://www.instagram.com/p/BifG91tjFmc/?taken-by=highbaz420
Guys Bein’ Dudes – SIT 6C – Sitstart facing right and climb straight up the middle on small holds, to gain larger edges. Bradley Bushell 2017.
- BLACKSTONE EDGE
On the Trad walls. Page 288.
Calibration – SIT 7A+ – Project 3.The central line. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135204064
Windy Miller – SIT 7B – Project 5. The left arete of the boulder. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135204064
On The Offwidth and The Anvil . Page 292/3.
Simple Dimple – SIT 7B – Project 13. pg 292. Slap up the arete. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135204064
Gnomeo and Juliet – SIT 7B+ – Project 3. pg 293. A tough sitstart dyno. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135204064
Hero Sit Start – 7C – Project 3. pg 293. Sitstart Hero, using the slabby footblock but not the low detached boulder that makes the bottom half of The Anvil. A real classic. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135204064
On the first boulder in the Back Edge. Page 294.
Sloper’s Slopers – 6B+ – Start on holds right of Nik’s Arete and traverse leftwards to finish up Nik’s Groove.
Redman’s Rib – 7A – Right of Nik’s Arete, start left hand on the good sidepull, right hand low on a small sidepull. Adam Jeeworth 2015 VIDEO: https://youtu.be/HWdcpJPEi6U
Hobbit’s Undercuts – SIT 7B – Climb into The Big Crack Thing from a sitstart on undercuts. Peter Wilkinson 2015 VIDEO: https://youtu.be/HWdcpJPEi6U
Sleepless Nights – SIT 6A+ – Sitstart the right arete, using the big sidepulls to the left.
On the Big Roof. Page 298.
Gurn Again – LOW 7A+ – Project 14. Start from undercuts and slap up the arete. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135204064
Soul Caliber – LOW 7A – Start as per The Lady’s Not For Gurning to the lip, then head straight up rather than moving left. Gain the top and reach right for a helpful RH hold to top out. John Wilson 2014. Problem 15 in guide. VIDEO: http://youtu.be/3ZWQTHnvLCg?list=UU6hZ0aLETa12rqaWRMUPaww
Iron Lady – LOW 7A – The right hand line. From undercuts, gain the lip then top out directly above. John Wilson 2015.
Tempest – SIT 7C – Project 24. A desperate rockover. Hardest move at Blackstone. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135204064
On the Trig Point Slab. Page 300.
Trig Slab RH – 6B SIT 6B+ – A good sitstart has been added to the RH variant. From LH shelf and RH pebbly edge, pull up and left to gain the LH sidepull and continue up the slab. The foot-ledge is not allowed, nor is the big undercut used on the 6A version.
Trig Of The Light – 6C+ SIT 7A – From LH slopey shelf and RH pebbly edge, head straight up, staying off the sidepull and undercut out left, and the arete out right. The foot-ledge is not allowed. A big rockover leads to balancy pebble pulling.
Trig Arete – 6B+ SIT 6C – Although an online video shows the foot-ledge being used, it’s a better problem (and no harder) if eliminated.
In the Trig Point area, page 301.
Mike’s Arete – 7A LOW 7A+ SIT 7B – Climb Green And Black without the left arete. The low start is from RH on the rail and LH on low slopers, whereas the sitter is actually from sitting, with RH lower. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/137792116 Mike Adams 2015
On the highball buttress in the Trig Point area, page 301. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/HWdcpJPEi6U
Turnpike Roof – 7A – Tackle the big roof (problem 24) via the good left hand hold on the lip, then slopey humping. George North 2015
Vangaurd – 7A – Climb the nose of the roof on its right (problem 25) with a slopey finish. RM 2014.
On the short wall in the corridor above and behind this buttress.
Matt’s Problem – SIT 6A – Climb the arete and pinches.
On the Hueco Block. Page 303.
Tom’s Problem – 6B+ – Between Ape Hour and the arete to the right, start low on the right arete up to the break then yard up with the left to a crimpy edge about 10 cm below the top in the middle of the bloc (above Ape Hour) then slap for glory.
Hueco Slab Traverse – 5+ – Start on the right arete of the slab. Traverse left and finish up Hueco Arete.
In the Short Routes area, Page 305.
Naomi’s Wall – 6B SIT 7B+ – The new sitstart goes from LH sidepull and RH flatty left of the arete. Make a big move to a distant sloper, then finish up Naomi’s Wall. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/137792116 Mike Adams 2015.
In the Beyond area. Page 309.
Helter Felt Ya – SIT 6B – The centre of wall between The Skelter and Merry Go Rounded. Start from RH sloper and LH sharp side pull. Pull up the wall without using aretes, though left hand side pull higher up is fine.
Kneegrinder – SIT 6B – Located on a small roof between problem 10 and 11, in the Beyond area. From sitting, climb direct over the roof. Photo HERE
On Ash Pit Slabs.
Directissima – 6A SIT 7A – Use the big sidepull to make a hard sitstart onto the slab. Eliminating the two break slots and the flatty just above is The J P Sitter SIT 7B. Johnny Peak, date not known.
- BULL STONES
On The Corral p. 52
Herd It Here First – 6A+ SIT 6B – Climb the arete on its left, from a sitter with hands on the lower block. Use the arete and anything you can reach.
On The Pinnacles p. 53
Hark To Bounty – 4+ SIT 6A – Sitstart the left end face, using the right arete (this face is Hark To Bounty, although the line in the guidebook is not clear.)
Sneak To Bounty – 4+ SIT 6B+ – The arete on its right has an awkward sitstart (this is the line mistakenly shown as Hark To Bounty in the guidebook).
Bounty Hunter – 5+ SIT 6C+ – Sitstart up the centre of the rippled wall to gain the standup.
On The Pinnacle itself.
Good Hiding – 6B SIT 7A – Climb the front-right arete from a tricky sitstart, to gain the rightwards leading holds. Follow these to the back arete and rock round at the jug to top out on the back of the pillar. RM 2017
The Ox Wrestler – 6C – Start clamping the aretes and slap upwards. Finish via the jug on the right arete.
On the Stirk Slabs, p.56
Man’s Not Hot – SIT 6B – Sitstart under the roof, hands matched on the blobby end of the obvious juggy ledge. Follow the ramp out to the lip and pull round to finish up Man Alive.
Breathe In – 4+ SIT 6C – Start both hands on the juggy ledge under the roof. Make a couple of powerful moves to gain holds up and right, then rockover back left to the ledge. Stay off the right arete.
In the Small Quarry, pg. 130. A few problems on the lower tier have been extended due to landing changes.
This Game Of Golf – 5 SIT 6B – An awkward sitter from hands in the break. Avoid big holds out right. A footblock has been moved, though the standing start was also previously undergraded.
Calculus Made Easy – 6B – The wall just right of the crack. A tricky start leads to an interesting finish. Landing has been flattened, so this is harder than before.
Essentials Of The School Of Algebra – 6A – Climb just right of centre. Landing has been flattened.
In the Small Quarry upper tier, several problems have been cleaned and extended on the first buttress on the left.
Rainbow In The Sky – 2 SIT 4+ – Now the landing has been flattened, it’s possible to do a pleasant sitter. The standup is a touch harder if you don’t use holds left of the arete. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/OqYq7Tv2sH0
1356 – 4+ – The wall between arete and the crack to the right. Stay off the big footledge out right. There are some fun variations… VIDEO: https://youtu.be/OqYq7Tv2sH0
1356 Left – 6B – Start matched on the undercuts, then use only the left-most of the obvious crimps in the centre of the wall. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/OqYq7Tv2sH0
1356 Sans Crimps – 6C – Start matched on the undercuts but eliminate all the crimps in the centre of the wall. A great sequence on smears and undercuts leads upwards. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/OqYq7Tv2sH0
Leaf In The Storm – 4 SIT 5+ – Climb past the short crack and gain the big hole.
Bird Of Paradise – 5 SIT 6A – Make a tricky move to the jug in the breakline, then climb upwards, staying right of the big hole.
Cock It And Primp – 6C LOW 6C+ SIT 7A – Start beneath the crimp and pocket (right of the big jug). Make a tough sitstart to gain the pocket and crimp, then continue upwards without using the big jug. (If you struggle with the sitter, try the low from the undercuts.) RM 2016 VIDEO: https://youtu.be/OqYq7Tv2sH0
Contortions For Pleasure – 6B LOW 6B+ SIT 6C – Stay right of the crimp and pocket and left of the crack. An awkward sitter leads to a reach off undercuts for two poor crimps beneath the sandy depressions (don’t use the sandy bits, they just crumble). Gain a better hold just above and continue more easily. (If you struggle with the sitter, try the low from the undercuts.) VIDEO: https://youtu.be/OqYq7Tv2sH0
On the Red Wall, pg. xx
Clint Barton – SIT 7C – A blinkers variation on Hawkeye. Climb without the good edges to the right – gain the RH sloper, then poor gaston LH and pull through with RH to the crimp beneath the overlap. Finish as per usual. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/173428119
On the boulders to the right, pg. xx
Memorial – SIT 7B – Sitstart the short undercut boulder, with hands on the lip. A high right heel may help you make a big move up to a decent hold. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/173428119
Maximus – SIT 7C+ – Sitstart as per Giganticus, but climb straight up the front of the boulder, using both aretes. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/173428119
In Weasel Quarry, pg. 135.
The Axis Of Weasel – 6C SIT 6C+ – Climb the left arete of the main wall, to finish on whopping incut jugs. The left edge of the crack is not allowed. The sitstart is from the centre of the wall, and moves left to gain the standup as soon as possible. VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7G_OWur3_I
Madferret – 7A+ SIT 7B – Fingery moves lead up the right side of the wall to a thin break. Traverse left to finish on the jug. The best sitstart is from the centre of the wall, and moves right via the undercut to gain the standing start. There is also a RH sitter at the same grade, from from LH sidepull, RH arete of crack. Nothing right of the crack is in. RM 2014. VIDEO (of RH sitter): https://vimeo.com/109404640
- COW’S MOUTH
On the roof boulder, pg. 270.
Bring It On Down – 7B+ – Just right of the left arete, pull on to poor holds above the lip and climb to the top. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO :https://vimeo.com/137792116
Rise And Shine – LOW 7C – Start at the low right flake. Traverse left into Bring It On Down. No footblock. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/137792116
Up The Sky – LOW 7B+ – Start at the low right flake. Traverse left and make a big move up to large slopers. No footblock. Mike Adams 2015 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/137792116
Slide Away – LOW 7B+ – Start at the low flake. Climb the wall left of the arete. No holds right of the arete. No footblock. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO:https://vimeo.com/137792116
Married With Children – SIT 7C+ – Start on the same flake as Get Your Fingers Out. Make a big move to slopers in the middle of the wall. Match poor holds and head for the notch up and left. Stay off the big slopey jug to the left. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/137792116
In the quarry, pg. 272.
Low Feat – SIT 7A+ – The sitter to Hi, Feet. Start LH high sidepull and RH low right sidepull. RM 2016. VIDEO:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnXLqe1NGSw
Music Or Kestrel – 6B SIT 7B – On the short green side of the quarry, climb the bulge from a tricky sitter to finish up the slabby upper section. RM 2016 VIDEO:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnXLqe1NGSw
In the quarry, pg. 273.
Flying Cows – 7B – Problem 25. Gain the two big flat holds by stepping in from the side, or direct if you like. Launch for the obvious protruding jug higher up the wall. RM 2017 VIDEO:https://youtu.be/Qv4VH8uj5G4
- CRAG STONES
Important access note & changes to guidebook directions – The style has been removed. Access to the crag is still possible by several routes, described below and in this bing maps screenshot: http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Crag-Stones-Access-Points-1024×835.jpg
1. Take the footpath near where the style used to be. This leads through nearby trees. Split off from this path to regain the old permissive path. It is possible to stay on access land all the way to the crag.
2. Park to the north and take the public footpath to the building marked Stone Fold on the OS map. You can then go across access land over Crag Hill to access Crag Stones from the the back.
3. Park in the north and walk down the access road. This is likely to be a longer walk, but could be a good option in wet weather when the footpath is boggy.
Perfect Storm SIT 7C+/8A – The low start to Black Whirlwind. Start RH undercut, LH small crack on the face. The footblock is allowed (it has been done without, but is a poorer problem). A brilliant power pinching classic. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/137196753
- CRAIG Y LONGRIDGE
On the Fertile Delta wall, pg. 71.
Jack To The Beat – SIT 7C+/8A – Sitstart right of Fertile Delta and Delta force, below the middle section of the Blackpool Car Jack traverse. Feet in or around the big break (foot lock) and use a decent low LH hold and tiny RH crimp to pull on and up to a pair of small neighbouring crimps. Adjust and snatch up left to a reasonable edge. Now match in, gain the good slot and finish up Fertile Delta. Greg Chapman 2016. VIDEO https://vimeo.com/163983511
On Main Wall, pg. 94.
The Denham Traverse 7A+/7B – Traverse Main Wall Left from left to right, finishing on easier ground at Main Wall Middle. The climbing has changed significantly since a fire damaged holds on the crux, making the traverse temporarily unclimbable – John Roberts has stabilised the remaining holds and reclimbed the line. VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vLol0ml-Pw#t
- DOVE LOWE
Scrittle Massala – 6A+ – Right of Tangled Up In Blue, climb the scoop feature on its right, above a terrible landing.
Love Dowe – SIT 6C+ – Right of the Scrittle Massala is a fin feature. Climb this on the left from a rather cramped ss on obvious undercut LH and RH on the fin. A very burly pull on is followed by a hearty lunge the to the opposite arete. Monkey up a stick moves lead shortly to a slopey top. PHOTO: http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/dove-lowe1.jpg Simon Huthwaite 2015
The Big Bad – SIT 7B/+ – Project 6 pg 264. Climb the wall with a big press for the top off pockets. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135697443
Pannikin – SIT 7B – Project 9 pg 264. A tough move to pull off the ground. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135697443
Little Vessel – SIT 7A – Project 7 pg 264. Mantel! Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135697443
Miss Perfect – 7B+ – Project 16 pg 265. The centre of the bulging wall. May be morpho. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135697443
Fat Sloper Action – 7A – The wall a few metres right of Tufa From Home, in the gully. Pull on to the fat sloper with both hands then go for the top. RM 2015. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/eXWQjdjWnYU
Talking Shillbut – 7A+ – Reclimbed after the lefthand pebble broke, no change in grade. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135697443
On the Upper Tier, p.193.
Competition Horror Show – 6B+ SIT 6C – The sitter adds a grade.
Dingle – 5 SIT 6B – The sitter adds interest. A nice heely move leads upwards.
- HAMMER HEAD
The Knockdown Sitstart – SIT 7C – A link of Berth of a Tool into the Knockdown finish. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135697443
Thunderstruck – SIT 8A – The blunt end of the boulder, from sitting. Very Good! Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/135697443
- HARCLES HILL
Harcles Dyno – 7C SIT 7C+ – Project 2 pg. 218. The wall left of the arete, with a huge dyno to the break from small holds. Dawid Skoczylas 2016 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/188111328
Three Mosquitos Here – 7A – The arete (just right of the dyno), climbed on its left, with a dynamic move to the ledge. Dawid Skoczylas, Mike Adams, RM 2016 VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSqe58rPa1o
Spragless – SIT 7B – Project 6, pg. 218. From the sidepull slot, dyno up to the hole.Dawid Skoczylas, RM 2016 VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSqe58rPa1o
The Sprag – SIT 7B+ – Project 6, pg. 218. The same problem, but without dynoing. There’s a funky sequence revolving round the thumb sprag hold. Mike Adams, 2016 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/188111328
- HEALEY NAB
Turron Blando – 7B – Pull on to the wall left of Grabadabadoo arete using RH gaston and LH crimp. The top is reached via a big move. RM 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/115936353
William The Bear – 7B SIT 7B+ – Sitstart Barmfingers then swing left and climb the groove (standing start here) via a high foot and a big lock off. RM 2018. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/GrrZf44hBtA
Aunty Climax – SIT 6C – Climb the left arete of Pop, on its right, with hands on the arete only, going for the top of the arete, not out right. Don’t use the footblock – it’s an awkward sitter but just about works if you arrange mats, and the climbing is decent. RM 2018.
Momentary Violin – 6B – Project 26. Climb the hanging wall without using anything below the lip. One tricky move to pull on, then easy to the top.
Feed Me – 5+ SIT 7A – Sitstart with hands on lip pinches and a foot on the solid lump out left, pull up to better holds. Surmount the lip (standup) and finish straight up. Stay off the other chossy foot possibilities in the cave. RM 2018.
More new problems have been done in the side quarry, mentioned in the red text at the end of the chapter. Topo here: http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Healey-Nab-Topo.pdf and VIDEO of The Snag, 6C: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxcKF9m7Gy8
- HIGHER CHELBURN
Unnamed – 5+ – Project 1, p.281.Start in the pit, from holds on the back wall.
Shelf Life – SIT 7A+/B – Similar to problem 4, p.282. Sitstart but stay off the arete. RM 2015. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/RnXCoK1KZT0
Pandora’s Box LH – 6A SIT 7B – The sitter adds a big move on from underclings. Feet anywhere. Mike Adams 2018. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/285659188
Pandora’s Box – SIT 7A+ – The sitter adds a big move on from underclings. Feet anywhere. Mike Adams 2018. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/285659188
Monowad – SIT 8A – Sitstart from RH undercling, LH tiny edge. Finish up Chimp And Chips. (Project 6 in guide). Mike Adams 2018. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/285659188
Astrochimp – 7C+ – Start LH sidepull, RH mono. Go to the top. (Project 7 in guide) Mike Adams 2018. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/285659188
Bradley Jackson has added some problems on the Platform Wall, a short wall reached by following the large main path through the quarry to its end. These are all around 5+/6A. There are some lines still to do, but cleaning is needed. There is a topo here http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Hoghton-Platform-Wall1.pdf
In the Clown’s Pocket area.
Pursuit Of Slappiness – 7A SIT 7A+ – The obvious sitstart has now been done, starting in the centre of the wall then moving out left to finish up the arete. Problem 1 in the guidebook. RM 2014. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/108073807
The Lamp – 5 SIT 7A – Left of Steep Start Wall (problem 3) and right of the corner. Sitstart from curving LH edge and low RH sidepull. Make a tough move up and left to better holds, then carry on to the good ledge (and beyond if you like). Stand Geoff Hibbert 2010. Sit RM 2018.
Dragon Horse – sport 7b+ – Left of Steep Start Wall (problem 3) and right of the corner. Start from good holds just right of the corner. Traverse right, staying below the break. Finish on the flake just right of Crescent of Embrace. Steven Li 2016.
- KEMPLE END
On the highball wall, pg. 79
Wacker Watkins – 6B – Project 11. Climb the left arete on its right throughout. Matt Troillett 2016
The Big Fish – 6B+ – Project 13. Climb the wall between Ribblesdale High and the corner crack. Matt Troillett 2016
- KNOWLE HEIGHTS
On the Left Section, pg. 108
The Erotic Fiction Of Robyn Mulah – 7A SIT 7B+ Climb the left side of the wall featuring The Wierdy Hole. RH good edge and LH flakes lead the way to a tricky move for jugs. Finish here. The sitter goes from a good hold low on the left. Big move right to gain the central edge and rock back left for the standup. Nik Jennings 2016. SIT Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO: https://t.co/Nu7Fv18J2k VIDEO (SIT): https://youtu.be/nt7ufGVIQ2o
Darkthrone – 7A+ SIT 7B – Only just left of The Wierdy Hole, use a rough little hold for RH and LH on the good low edge. A tough move gains a higher sidepull then jugs to the left. Finish here. The sitter is from the break. Project 4 in the guide. RM 2016 SIT Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://t.co/debFmOReZF VIDEO (SIT): https://youtu.be/nt7ufGVIQ2o
On the Right Section, pg. 109
Back, Sack And Crack – SIT 7B – The wall left of the arete, from sitting. Start on low crimps, hoik your feet up and move right to finish up the crack. No back wall for feet. RM, Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/nt7ufGVIQ2o
Knowle Edmunds – LOW 8A – Start LH Arete, RH undercut. Power up to a crimp on the face and finish upwards. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/188111328
In the Far Bay, see map on pg. 232. Downclimb or drop off at the top.
Toad Of Resistance – 7A+ The wall left of the arete, without using the arete or the niche up and left. Dynamic. RM 2015.
Truntillio – 6B – The arete on its left.
Amagicka – 6B – The wall just right of the corner, with a big foothold to rock onto.
Omeron – 6C – From holds on the slopey feature, rock left to better edges.
Ode To Persistence – 7C+ The blank wall left of the crack. From undercuts, head for lip slopers and traverse left to finish in the corner. A tiny crimp may or may not be of use. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/173428119
Opposite the Far Bay main wall is a short overhanging wall. Again, drop off rather than topping out.
The Wind Cries Lairy – 7B – From the left end, traverse rightwards below the break. Finish on the large jug. RM 2015
Oversight – 6A – Traverse the break from left to right.
Rip Van Crimple – SIT 7A – Sitstart the wall with a heel in the big low hold. RM 2016
Bunch Of Fool – SIT 7B – Sitstart from both hands in the big low hold. Awkward. RM 2015
Finders Weepers – SIT 7A – Sitstart just right of the big low hold. RM 2015
In the Cul-de-sac, p. 235 is a wall with a brilliant feature. This wall is best visited in summer, as it is often damp during the rest of the year.
The Longest Sloper In The World – 6A – Balance upwards.
Shapeshifter – 6B – Climb past the right end of the sloper, with an awkward move to reach it.
Pull-De-Sac – 6C – Climb edges to an interesting top section using thin horizontal pinches. Avoid stepping left to the sloper.
Scent Of A Human – 6B – Make interesting moves to gain the small nose, then the top.
In Rocket End, p. 235
Just Fear – 7A – The block with a protruding roof is tackled via a scary dyno. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/173428119
On the Pool Block, p. 233
Ovinity Phase 4 – SIT/LOW 7B+ – With hands on poor low crimps, bicycle the highest footblock (feet no lower than this) and snatch upwards to finish as per Phase 3. Mike Adams 2015
- LESTER MILL
Darren Sturgess has added a few problems on the beach left of the DWS area at Lester Mill – pg. 126. ….As with all of this area, water levels may vary, but these are climbable as of October 2014. I’ve put Darren’s topo photos together in a PDF, which you can print off, fold backwards in the middle and insert into your guidebook. PDF DOWNLOAD HERE
In the Top Bay, pg. 125, on the short wall just left of Project 3. Pic HERE.
It Aint No X Factor – SIT 7A – From sitting, climb the short wall, using the cracks. Darren Sturgess 2014
Creep – SIT 7B – From sitting, follow just the slanting crack leftwards. Darren Sturgess 2014
On the boulder.
Dawid’s Reach – SIT 7C – RH on the sloper, LH on a small edge near the far lip. This is the last hard move of Bulldozer. Dawid Skoczylas 2016
Bulldozer – SIT 8A – Project 1a in the guidebook. RH on the sloper, LH big undercut near the lip. Clamp out to finish via Dawid’s Reach. Dawid Skoczylas 2016 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/188111328
Tendon Heights – 7A – Pull on to tiny edges just right of centre. Rock onto a foot and slap the top. Dawid Skoczylas 2016
Bluster – SIT 7B – LH edge in the roof, RH lip. Feet on the footblock. Work rightwards to finish up Blister via the easy sequence. Dawid Skoczylas, RM 2016
Blister Easy – SIT 7A – Feet on the top ledge of the footblock are allowed. For the original 7C version, they aren’t (this isn’t mentioned in the guidebook.)
More problems have been done in another bay on the upper tier.
- LOBB MILL
Bionic Harmonic – SIT 7C – Link Extra Bacon into Body Bionics. RM 2015. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/C3C8YLpfZeI
Bionical Overtone Harmonic – SIT 7C – Climb Bionic Harmonic to the arete, then rock rightwards onto the slab to finish. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/188111328
The Wizard Of Tod – SIT 7B – From sitting, climb Tantalicious without the footledge. John Wilson 2014.
Boardwalk Empire – SIT 7A – Start on the jug of Footloose And Fancy Free. Traverse right to finish up Tantalicious, without using any holds below the lip. The footledge is allowed. John Wilson 2014.
- LOWER MONTCLIFFE
Ringdance – SIT 7A+ – At the back of the middle bay, there is an overhanging wall hidden in a corner. Sitstart this from the right arete and traverse left to pull round the left arete and finish on the face. RM 2015.
Stutter Step – SIT 7A – Climb the wall just right of the slot, without using the slot. RM 2015.
Bad Mama Jama – 7A+ – In the end bay, climb the tall arete on its left. Stay right of the corner crack. Problem 23, pg. 144. RM/DS 2016.
Battlestar – 7B LOW 7B+ SIT 7C – The bulging wall right of the Indian Face arete, using anything except the left arete. The low start is from matched on the undercling. Stand & Low Start Dawid Skoczylas 2016, SIT RM 2016.
- OUSEL’S NEST
All the latest additions are featured in this PDF. Print, fold backwards and slot into your guidebook: http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Ousels-Nest-Extra.pdf
With the new additions, Ousel’s boasts enough 7’s to keep most people busy for some time. Several of these are also quite highball – ticking off “The Ouselballs” is a decent achievement. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/PhNHM57xna0
The undercut bulge on the left end of the crag features a few problems that didn’t quite make it into the guidebook.
Nutcracker – 7C+ – From the large flat jug, follow the crack leftwards to the other big flat jug. Holds above the crack are out, as is the large footledge. RM 2014.
Notcracker – 6B – As per Nutcracker, but use the footledge. Same grade in both directions.
Oddstart – 6A – Start matched on the undercling. Use the footledge and climb straight up through the bulge to a good ledge.
The Groove – 6A – Climb the groove, finishing on the high jugs above the right arete.
The Groove Sans Footblock – 6C – This time, eliminate the protuding footblock.
The Groove Right – 7A – Start on edges at the base of the right arete. Pull into the groove and work upwards. Eliminate the protruding footblock. RM 2014.
Crucifixed – 7B – Make a hard move to gain the crack right of the arete, then finish on jugs above. RM 2014.
The Ten Year Itch – 7B – Just right of the blank wall, tick-tack up twin cracks to gain good flat edges. Highball. RM 2014.
Brick Shaped Dreams – 6C – Climb the arete of Yahoo! to gain the ramp, then move right and make crux moves to gain a good high jug.
Backwards Magic – 7A+ – Take the Zendik crimp with LH and pull through to underclings just above. Finish on the high jug. RM 2014.
Ring Ooze – 7B – Extend Tappings Of Power with hard moves to gain higher crimps, then bust rightwards to finish on high jugs. Paul Robins 2014.
Faith And Energy Area
Meeting Palms – 7C – The arete left of Chicken Wings, finishing matched on the obvious super slopey shelf. Problem 7 in the guide. Dawid Skoczylas 2014. Note: Grade is a guess for average height people. If you are tall enough to keep feet on the break it isn’t 7C.
Parting Of Palms – 8A+ – The highball extension to Meeting Palms. From the sloper, continue up the arete until you can reach right to the huge finishing slot. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/173428119
Egyptology – 6C SIT 7A+ – Sitstart twin cracks left of the corner. Gain thin crimps, then make a hard move for a hold on the left arete, then finish on jugs in the break above.
Kam Start – 5+ – The start of the route Kam. Climb from one break to the next VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/231421294
Pizzy – 6A – Just right of Kam and left of the crack, climb the wall to a break. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/231421294
Pit Club – SIT 7C – Project 8, pg. 201. Pull up to the break, then make a hard to move to a slanting finish hold. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/188111328
Danger Dusk – 7C+ – Project 3. Start a metre right of the left end of the overlap, on LH undercut and RH edge. Reach a high gaston and work up to a finish on a jug above the next overlap. Mike Adams 2016. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/188111328
Hardboiled – 7A – Traverse the Parboiled wall. The same grade in either direction. Marc Bellinghall 2016 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/249241638
Pitfool – 7A SIT 7A+ – The wall just right of the arete, with a big move from crimps to the top. All footholds to the left are allowed, except the big ledge. RM 2018 VIDEO: https://youtu.be/TRcfvYvziqg
- REEF KNOLL
Dagger Traverse – 7A+ – The traverse project mentioned in the guide, starting from Kebab House and finishing up Flying Truck. Chris Thornton 2015. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/Q0qPXW9yXvc
More new problems have been done by Chris Thornton. See topo here: http://www.lancashirebouldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Reef-Knoll-New-Problems.pdf and VIDEO: https://www.facebook.com/chris.thornton.79/videos/710531235718192/
On the wall beneath Lancastrian HVS 5b, there are a couple of nice problems which finish at the break. This is the first obvious buttress left of Whisker.
Lancastrian – SIT 5 – Sitstart on the footblock then get the chipped hold and finish on the break. Not the main attraction.
The Mysterious Mr Underfinger And His Mostly Tame Thunder Singer – 6C SIT 6C+ – Sitstart on the footblock then use the undercuts to gain the break up and right. Stay off the chipped hold and the holds above that. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/t8l3WFlcKo8
Sandhand – SIT 6B – Sitstart the right arete, staying off the large footblock. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/t8l3WFlcKo8
Further right from Whisker and Catfoot, about 20m left of Oli’s prow, the ground rises and the top of the crag drops to form a topout niche. This is just left of the route Manque De Ville VS 4c. The wall here makes a good problem…
Bring Dem Hops – 7A SIT 7A+ – Use the slopey LH pocket to spring for the top. Stay away from the crack to the left and the good finger-slot to the right. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/t8l3WFlcKo8
- SLADEN ROOF
Sladen Roof Direct – SIT 7B – Eliminate the crack and go straight to the lip. Jeremy Drabble 2014. VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bxy31r8-JFM
On pg. 102.
Two Tough – SIT 7A+ – Sitstart from the jugs of Sandman and move right to finish up Two Right. RM 2016
Two Right – 7A SIT 7A – Sitstart from the base of the arete. Adds a bit, but not a full grade. As with the stand, don’t use the crack. RM 2016
On the Red Wall, pg. 105
Martian Dust – SIT 7C+ – Project 5. Sitstart and climb rightwards to gain the slot and finish up Too Hard For Greg Rimmer. Mike Adams 2016
Reg Grimmer – 7A – Start LH on a pocket (used for RH on Too Hard For Greg Rimmer). Rocking to a flake and trend up right. Paul Robins 2017
Right of Red Wall and left of Fridgehugger are some slabs.
New Old Lands – 6B+ – Climb the centre of the widest slab, starting from one hand in the pockets. Stay off big holds up and left. Finish at the break, or quest upwards if you feel the need for adventure. PHOTO https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=296483
Brown Bear – 7B – Climb the black streak on the right side of the widest slab, via a high LH undercut/thumb sprag and then a thin crimp layaway out right. Step up on a smear and slap the break. Stay off big footholds to the left. Paul Robins 2017
- STONY EDGE
Important access note & changes to guidebook directions – Due to the erection of new fences, the parking described in the guidebook has become problematic for the farmer, who needs the space to turn his vehicle. Please do not use this parking spot. Please park next to the White House pub, as for Cow’s Mouth and Blackstone Edge. From here, walk towards Cow’s Mouth and continue on to the reservoir, with Stony Edge behind. This approach is slightly longer, but flat the whole way.
On the Pathside Roof, pg. 251
NOTE: For the Pathside Roof, it’s now best to park at the bottom of the hill, near the canal, and walk up the road. Approx 20min.
Turkey Delight – LOW 7A+ – From the break, reach through the centre of the roof to a hold past the lip. Head left to gain the arete, then go for the top. Barrie Kershaw 2018. VIDEO https://www.instagram.com/p/BiZ2lBtDV-b/?taken-by=highbaz420
On the Big One, pg. 254
Bargle Blaster – SIT 7A+ – Extend Argle Bargle to finish up Baby Bouncer. Fantastically pumpy. (Note: Argle Bargle is now considered 7A). RM, Andy Emery, James Williamson 2014. VIDEO https://vimeo.com/105528119
Baby Bouncer – SIT 6C+ – This has now been done from a proper sitstart, though shorter folk will struggle. No change in grade. A sitter from lower may be possible, but much harder.
Argy Bargy – 6B+ – Climb straight into the finish of Argle Bargle.
The Grit Award – SIT 7A+ – Sitstart the Argle Bargle arete and rock rightwards to gain holds on the ledge right of the arete. A weird mantel/flop move allows you to reach the top of the boulder. Problem 12 in the guide. RM 2014.
On the Back Edge, pg. 257
A Is For Aardvark – 6A SIT 6B+ – A sistart has been added.
Gritworm 6B SIT – 6B+ – This does go from a proper sitstart using holds right of centre, rather than just a low start. No change in grade.
Near the RB Slab, pg. 259
It Would Be Who Of You – 7A+ SIT 7B – Problem 14 in the guide. Mantel the hold. Impressively flashed by the FA. Oli Mueller 2014. A sitstart has been added. Oli Mueller 2015 Pic: https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BxM2hTrCMAAmGz4.png:large
- STRONSTREY BANK
On the rogue boulder.
Six Or Sticks – SIT 7C – Start on the obvious good edge on the right and traverse left (using a handhold on the flake below the lip) to finish up Noisy Cricket. The footblock on the right is out. Caleb Ainsworth 2015
Grasshopper – SIT 7C+ – Start on the obvious good edge on the right and traverse left, with no handholds below the lip. Finish up Noisy Cricket. The footblock on the right is out. Peter Wilkinson 2015 VIDEO https://youtu.be/bzsD44ZbPyQ?list=UU6hZ0aLETa12rqaWRMUPaww
Evil Leaper – SIT 7C – Start on the obvious good edge on the right. Start right heel on face. No footledge, but anything else is fair game (there’s a key kneebar).Pull up to good RH hold, get LH out, then work up to pop for the top. Mike Adams, RM 2016 VIDEO https://vimeo.com/188111328
Grimlock – SIT 8A – Start on the obvious good edge on the right. Feet start on back wall. No footblocks on right. Pull up to good LH hold, then bump right up to high ripples and go for the top. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO https://vimeo.com/188111328
In the left bay, pg. 112.
Finesse – 7B+ – The excellent technical bulge. Project 2. Mike Adams, RM 2016 VIDEO https://vimeo.com/188111328
In the right hand bay.
Anhedonia – 6B – Just right of Tony Bland (19), use the vertical crack for LH and make a big move to the curving crack up and right. Finish on the break jug just above. VIDEO vimeo.com/104669479
Bilateral Vasectomy – 6B – Just right of the arete problem Notch (21), climb the wall between the arête and corner, using the upper inner arête.
Great Expectations – 6C – Just right of the arete problem Notch (21), climb the wall between the arête and corner, staying off the upper arete. Dave Mann 2017 VIDEO: https://youtu.be/7mZirrW8JoA
Walk past the main quarry with the quarry on your left. After 100m there is another small quarry on the left. This contains one small undercut block with several squat-and-reach-the-lip problems. These are best done without using the low left plinth, or any footholds below the level of the allowed ledges. Grades from 6A to 7A. The landing is flat but drops away sharply after one metre – some will find this fine, others may not be happy without a spotter.
- THORN CRAG
A newly developed block is situated on the downhill side of the main approach track, some 80m past the Crag Boulders. Once level with the block (which can be seen from above) it is a further 10-15m down the slope. There is a small cairn on top of the block to make identifying it a little easier. The climbing is on the NE face.
Shades Of Jae – 7B+ – the appealing headwall of the steep roof from its left side, starting on a side pull pinch, dished edge and left sloping heel all on the very lip of the roof (any potential foot blocks are to be considered out of bounds). From this position roll up and over to a tilted LH crimp before matching in and tick-tacking up on slopey edges to the top. Greg Chapman 2014. Pic and full report: http://www.lakesbloc.com/news/634-shades-of-jae-thorn-crag
On the Trackside Boulders.
Uzi 9mm – SIT 6C+ – Sitstart on an obvious blunt nose hold beneath the lip and to the right of the Guns ‘n’ Ammo arete. Throw a heel on and match the sloper at the base of the arete, then follow the lip round and finish up Knights of the Turntables.
In the Upper Crag sector, pg. 37. About 10m of Return Of The Fly.
Salacious Crumb – SIT 7B+ – Sitstart in the pit before moving on to the left side of the arete and heading direct for the top. Greg Chapman 2016. PHOTO: http://tinyurl.com/hnehls5
In the Recessed Bay, pg. 207, several lines have been done around Project 14.
POOR QUALITY VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixz1pgSSn2I
Waterbaby – 6A SIT 6C+ – The standout line, on great rock. Climb the waterside arete on its right, to finish at the break up and right. Traverse carefully and step off.The sitstart adds great moves on backhand pinches – stay off the footledge, it’s 6B using this. You can also link the sitstart into the rightwards traverse, which is about the same grade. PIC: https://pbs.twimg.com/media/B1eKeT_IYAAwd44.jpg
Landshark – 6B+ SIT 7B – Pull on just right of the arete, then traverse right across the face and up to the break. The arete is off-limits. No footledge. Stand RM 2014. Sitstart Mike Adams 2015.
Landshark Direct Finish – SIT 7B – Sitstart Landshark then continue straight up, with a tricky move to a sloper on the upper arete. Sitstart Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/dzi0o0SlwAI
On the Little Buttress, pg. 209.
Jack the Giant Slayer – 7C+ SIT 8A+ – Climb Magic Beans to the flat hold, then finish up the left side of the arete. Mike Adams 2016.
- WICKEN LOWE
There are some entertaining problems at the back of the boulders. In a small corner gully near the steam: there are some often mucky problems which are entertaining when dry.
The Dwelling – SIT 6A – Left of the corner is a rippled wall. The left arete of this is climbed from super low – burrow down to start with both hands in the break. A heel-toe is useful to get moving. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/105867363
The Green Eyed Lobster – 6A – Just right of the corner, start LH undercling jam, RH shelf. Stay off the crack/arete.
Gullet – 6B – Climb the centre of the wall with a tricky mantel to get started. In a tiny corridor at the centre of the boulderfield: the green wall has a sitstart.
John’s Sitter – SIT 6A – Use protrusions and the good foothold to sitstart the centre of the wall.
Project – To the left is a slanting rib. Sitstart this.
- WILTON 1
The Move – 7A SIT 7A+ LOW 7B – A new sitter to the standup. Doesn’t add any hard moves but the standup was pretty tough so this probably edges into the next grade. Start from the back of the roof. The low start eliminates the back wall and starts from hanging, with RH pinch at the back of the roof, LH pinching the fat rib above the lip. RM 2014. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/tcdWlCb57ws
The Move Footless – 7B – As described in the guide. Adam reckoned 6C/+, but he thought The Move was 6B. Adam Hughes 2015.
Snakey Beeline – SIT 7B+ – A high extenstion to Snakey B. Climb Snakey B to the usual finish, then head up and right to gain the high slanting jug, via a gaston and matchstick edge. RM 2014. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/tcdWlCb57ws
Midgesquito Crimpelopes – 7A+ SIT 7B – A new sitter to the standup – Start from the big LH sloper and any crimp for RH. Gain the central hold and pull into the standup. Problem 2, page 166. RM 2014. VIDEO: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqhNDTINBZk On the inside of The Prow.
Jim’s Slab – 7A+ – The direct finish to Flywalk Slab, without stepping right to the finishing ledge of Flywalk. Jim Holmes, date unknown. Problem 18, page 169.
Veteran Cosmic Rocker – 7B+ – This is best climbed direct (the original started up the left then swung round the arete on pinches) and makes a brilliant highball. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/PANsWXT1UyA
Mad Man’s Monologue – 7C SIT 8A – Project 7 pg. 172. Sitstart at obvious sidepull and slot. Climb left to a sloper right of the corner crack, then head for the obvious finishing hold. Mike Adams 2016 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/188111328
A Pleasant Disappointment – 7A+ – Project 7 pg. 175. The highball wall, via crimps, sidepulls, and a deep slot. Head for the high sloper, then make one last move to jugs up and right. Descend down Gravitational Experiment to the left. Mike Adams 2016
- WILTON 2
On the recently developed Steps Wall, which is the leftmost bit of rock in the quarry, near the steps. The arete is 6A from sitting, and the wall to the right 4+ from the shelf. The two harder problems are:
Reach For The Tsars – SIT 7A – Sitstart at the arete, then swing left to climb the wall via the decent RH sidepull. RM 2018 VIDEO: VIDEO: https://youtu.be/4qaRJUiK5jQ
Stepmother – LOW 7B – Start matched on underclings. Eliminate the big sidepull and climb the wall via poor edges. RM 2018 VIDEO: https://youtu.be/4qaRJUiK5jQ
On the slab, pg 181.
The Mouse’s Gauntlet – 7B+ LOW – The wall left of Purple Feel, without the big hold up and left. Pull on LH poor crimp out left, RH low sidepull. Rock on to the edge and make a stretch for a very slopey sidepull out right. Pull upwards to finish using holds either side of the rib. RM 2017 VIDEO: https://youtu.be/ZONsTVekoGo
Footless Fun – 6A – Just a daft bit of fun – smear up The Undercut without using hands, to finish stepping rightwards on the arete ledge.
On the Hidden Wall, pg 178.
Laminar Flow – SIT 7C – Project 5. From sitting, move left to gain the thin sidepull, then head to the break and match to finish. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/138476313
Turbulent Flow – SIT 7C+ – Project 6. From sitting, gain undercuts and make a big move for the ledge. Match to finish. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/138476313
- WILTON 3
The Starship Wilton Direct – SIT 7C – The logical progression and a much better problem. From a start matched on the slot, pull out of the small roof to small face holds and finish up the nose. Big holds out left are off limits, as are all foot ledges and sidewalls. RM 2015. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/ipH8VXWhn8I
Rodin’s Requiem Sitstart – SIT 8A – Sitstart and climb into the standup, via a hard move from a small RH sidepull to gain the big LH layaway, then another tough move to gain a RH on the large square-cut hold. Mike Adams 2015 VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/138476313
Eliminate Crack – 6A+ – The project listed on Orange Wall. Climbed years ago by John Hartley et al.
- WILTON 4
Sally – 6A – At the left end of the crag, the VS 5c Sally is a good highball above pads. Due to landing changes it is now a little taller and a little harder than it once was. Chunky climbing with interesting moves. Topping out past the heather is a little sketchy, much like the Long Back Wall at Brownstones.
Sitting On Sally – SIT 6C – Sitstart the VS Sally at the left end of the crag. Stay off the crack out left (6A with this). Awkward moves lead into the standup. Drop off at good jugs or carry on to the top.
Hell’s Bells 7A – The E5 6b in the dip, climbing into the forked crack. Has now been done as a highball boulder problem above pads. Bring all your pads and spotters for this one. Excellent! VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/107658201
Nowt But Chips – 7A+ SIT 7B+ – A strict version of Burnley Fish And Chips Since 1971. Climb the arete using no hand-holds further than 30cm from the arete itself. For the standing start pull on with LH bobbly crozzle, RH arete. The crux of the standing start is likely to be very size-dependant – longer-armed folk will be able to do it in one big stretch at an easier grade. RM 2014.
Ultimate Arete Experience – 6B+ SIT 7A – Sitstart the arete on its right. Stay off the good holds up and right (used on TBOJA). VID: https://youtu.be/MWM-cIkKF44 SIT Tom Coulthard, RM 2016
The Ballad Of John Axon – 6A SIT 6B – A sitstart has now been done, using the arete to start. A tricky move via a small RH undercut leads to the huge sidepull and then the top.
Dimple – 6B – An old problem that should really have been in the guidebook. On the wall right of the Burnley… arete, start as far right as possible on undercuts and traverse left to gain the good holds and finish up The Ballad Of John Axon.
Pimple – 7A+ – A high variation of Dimple. From the furthest right undercuts, step leftwards onto the line of poor footholds and pull across the undercuts to finish up The Ballad Of John Axon. The low footledge used on Dimple is not allowed. RM 2014.
Nemesis – LOW 7C – Climb the central crack in the red wall, on its right. Start standing with hands on the lowest undercuts. Sequency and thin. RM 2014.
Nemesister – SIT 7C+ – Start LH crack, RH undercut. No footledge. Make tensiony moves leftwards across underclings to finish up Nemesis. RM 2019.
Rhamnousa – 7C+ – Just right of Nemesis. Start on chest high sidepulls. Sitstart with footledge adds no grade. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/138476313
Rhamnousa Sitter – SIT 8A – Start LH crack, RH undercut. No footledge. RM 2019.
The Perfect Catch – 7B+ – Just right again. From the good sidepull, make a huge move for the finger jug on the lip, up and slightly left. Sit start is a project. Mike Adams 2015. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/138476313
Further right the walls get taller. On the back wall of the quarry, just right of the corner is a clean arete.
Human Wave – 6B – Climb the fine arete on its left, finishing up the short groove. Highball. To top out, preplace a rope from the stake to pull past the towering choss, or downclimb if confident. VIDEO: https://vimeo.com/125851880
- WITHENS BUCKSONES
Visible over the gully from the car park is a short, tilted block. This is a nice 5min amble from the car – head to the dam and turn left. Drop down the slope when you are above the boulder. There are a few sitstarts and a good traverse. Bring a good pad (two for the traverse) as landings are rocky.
Virgil – SIT 6B+ – Start matched on sidepulls. Slap the lip and continue straight up.
Dante – SIT 6A+ – The central line, with a left-facing sitstart on underclings.
Alighiero – SIT 6A+ – The right arete on its left. Avoid the break out right, though its fine to use this at the top. Finish direct. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/wV4DdS-IgnM
Inferno – SIT 7B+ – Start matched on sidepulls. Throw for the lip and head rightwards to finish around the arete. Stay below the break (though you can use it once past the arete). RM 2015 VIDEO: https://youtu.be/wV4DdS-IgnM
There are some boulders on the opposite side of the valley to those described in the guidebook. To reach these, follow the reservoir track from the car park without turning at the dam. When the track makes a sharp bend to the left, there are two gates leading uphill. Take the second gate. Follow this path until you can turn left between a stone wall and a low line of rocks in a banking. Drop down when possible to reach the prominent Castle boulder or continue to reach the Ridge boulders.
On the Castle boulder:
Hustle Back – 5 – Climb just right of the arete. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/wV4DdS-IgnM
Muscle Tack – 6B – Climb the central line, staying off jugs to either side. A tricky move from a flake leads to a lip sloper, then the top. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/wV4DdS-IgnM
Castle Black – LOW 6A – Start crouched on the plinth. Gain the juggy shelf, then the top. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/wV4DdS-IgnM
Body Slack – LOW 6A – The green wall right of the arete. Start crouched on the plinth, gain the shelf, then push rightwards on green holds to the top.
The first Ridge boulder is an oddly angled block with some great holds and a few sitstarts:
The Real Funk – 4+ SIT 5+ – Sitstart the arete and top out via the blobs.
The Seal Punk – 5+ SIT 6B – Sitstart at the obvious edges and make a tricky move for the top, using the right arete as much as you like. Usw the right arete to pull over the lip.
The Veal Monk – 6A SIT 6B+ – Sitstart at the obvious edges and head straight up and over, without using the right arete. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/wV4DdS-IgnM
The Crunk – SIT 6C – Sitstart as per Veal Monk (no right arete) and traverse the lip leftwards to finish round the far left arete.
The Ridge Roof is just below the stone wall:
Bitter Sitter – SIT 6A+ – Just right of the left arete, head straight up.
Butter Flutter – SIT 6B – Climb via the large sloper and the positive crack.
King Of The Myrmidons – SIT 7A – Start with hands anywhere right of the crack and traverse left below the top. Gain the left arete and rock round this to finish. RM/John Wilson 2015. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/wV4DdS-IgnM
Back at the main crag, there is a fun cantilevered roof which offers a couple of entertaining lowballs.
Grey Mare – SIT 6C/7A – On the left side of the roof. Start at the obvious jug and slap left until you can get a foot up and rockover. This is project 16 though the line drawn in the topo isn’t quite right. RM 2015. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/KzUJguwp59A
Knightmare – SIT 6B+ – On the right side of the roof. Start at the slopey protusions and slap the lip. VIDEO: https://youtu.be/KzUJguwp59A
In the top cluster of boulders…
Si’s Slab – 5+ – The slab left of problem 7.
Si’s Sitter – SIT 6A – Sitstart the cleft between problems 7 and 8, on its right